Time and again, I hear many travellers eloquently describing the wonders of the north eastern India. The seven sisters with a plethora of geographical spectacles have plenty of eye-soothing destinations. So when the opportunity came knocking on my door about a visit to Shillong and surrounding sights, I could not say nope, no time!

Day 1

An early morning flight to Guwahati from Delhi initiated this memorable journey. I preferred to take a power nap in the flight as the ensuing road journey to Shillong will be very tiring.

Our Air BnB owner in Shillong, Mr. Lam had sent a cab for the three of us and a local lady at the Guwahati airport ad there started our eventful road journey on NH206. The local lady, Tanya, took us to a restaurant where authentic Khasi cuisine is served. The non vegetarians amongst us had a platter of boiled sticky rice, dal, Doh-Neiong – pork cooked in a light watery gravy of tea leaves, fried chicken pakora and mutton curry. The pork was the best – mellow to the core and not the chewy variety we have in the restaurants.

It was raining cats and dogs on the whole national highway and hence we could not savour the beauty of Umian lake or the Bada Pani.

It took us approximately four hours to reach Shillong. The traffic in Shillong is hell crazy – slower than Mumbai’s during the peak hours. We finally reached our Air BnB Thrift Inn Homestay and met our very gracious host Mr. Lam who guided us about the restaurants in the Police Bazaar.

We were assigned the apartment set on the third floor of the homestay and the view from the terrace was beautiful. The apartment is very well maintained with simplistic interiors and pamphlets posted on the walls regarding the do’s and don’t’s. There is a small living room, a lobby, two bed rooms with two beds each and cabinets, a dining area with a kitchenette and a balcony with a washroom.

We explored the area of Police Bazaar in the evening with a visit to a local fine-dine restaurant Déjà vu. The food was great there but since we longed for something north Indian, we knocked the doors of the nearby Amma restaurant and had a homely meal there.

North Indian Thali at Amma restaurant Diced chicken with vegetables from Deja Vu Diced chicken with vegetables from Deja Vu North Indian Thali at Amma restaurant

Day 2

The second day started early at 7 a.m. because we had to depart for Cherrapunjee to start the Living Roots Bridge trek. We were greeted with a delicious breakfast of aloo paratha prepared by Mr. Lam’s mother and we hogged onto them like voracious beasts because the coming journey and trek would rob us of calories.

Our host Mr. Lam took us on the two hour drive explaining about the weather and the surrounding landscapes. Since we were driving through the heaviest rainfall area, the visibility was low. We were practically driving through the clouds and had to be slow.

The original name for Cherrapunjee was Sohra and the locals still use this name. You can see the sign boards mentioning the name while you traverse the narrow lanes there. As Lam elaborated the history, we got to know that Cherrapunjee was the first town to be established by the Britishers in the north east India as it connected well with Bangladesh. Shillong and Guwahati were established much later. Therefore you will see some vintage Catholic churches en route to the Living Roots bridge trek.

We finally reached the place where the trek begins. The clouds had cleared by then so we started in good conditions. There are bamboo sticks available at the nearby shops with water bottles and light snacks. Washrooms are also situated there and are payable, so expect spot on cleanliness there.

There is a plethora of Living Roots Bridges in and around Cherrapunjee but the most spectacular and the oldest one is the Double Living Roots bridge which is a actually 300-400 years old. Fashioning these bridges is an art and is passed down through generations. The aerial roots of the fig trees are guided through bamboo or wood over the river streams by twisting them together time and again. Over time, more roots grow and strengthen over time. It takes about 40-50 years for a young bridge to be functional.

The trek is easier on the terrain side because you just have to climb up/down the steps. The trouble is that there are 3200 steps on one side and you first have to climb down and then up. Additionally, we are not used to climbing so many stairs, so it takes time for your body to get acclimatised. The minute you stop for rest breaks, you can feel your legs shaking because the body takes time to stop the momentum.

It is soothing to breathe the fresh air of the surrounding forest and feast your eyes with the enveloping mountains and the dispersing clouds.

There are two suspension bridges en route to the double bridge. The first one, a steel wire suspension bridge, is darn scary because it starts oscillating if more than two people traverse on it. But the view of the river ferociously flowing over huge boulders is fearlessly enchanting.

You can also spot a lot of epiphytes/fungi stuck on the trunks of dead trees.

Two hours of arduous trekking finally comes to a wonderful site of the double living roots bridge and the surrounding musical waterfall. It is advisable to relax there and maybe take a dip in the clear water to soothe your tired nerves.

We had our lunch at a local homestay and were served the usuals – boiled rice, dal, sautéed potatoes in turmeric, egg fry and bamboo shoot pickle. The bamboo shoot pickle was lip smacking – sour with the spiciness of black pepper.

The trekking up part is really difficult because the staircase is way too steep. We were saved by the juicy pineapple available at kiosks.

The whole trek takes about five hours and is tedious. So it is better to stay at a local homestay/inn/hotel.

But as adventurous as we are and with the able guidance of our host, we decided to visit the site from where the Seven Sisters fall is visible. The clouds had finally cleared and with no sign of rainfall, our DSLR’s were out.

We had booked La Kapur Inn for our stay in Cherrapunjee and were pleasantly surprised by the helpful staff there. The owner and the one of ladies there – Teesta helped us in every way possible. The dinner was a simple affair with chappatis, dal, makhani chicken and salad.

Day 3

Lam asked us to go easy on this day as we were super tired from the trek. We started at 9 a.m. and went for a 100km drive to Dawki – the India Bangladesh border. The skies were comparatively clearer today so we could see the vibrantly green rolling hills.

We halted for a short time to buy organic black pepper, coffee and honey from a local shop and trust me, these are better than the ones you find in the super markets.

The journey is smooth but there are so many photograph spots en route that you would want to get out of your car time and again. The flowing streams, the English pines and the surrounding greenery beckons you to keep capturing them.

As soon as you enter the Dawki village, you can spot the towering betel nut trees. The surrounding flora changes to evergreen forests so expect extreme humidity which will severely drench you. If you are fond of boating, then better to board the rustic boats sailing over the muddy waters (monsoon specific) of Umngot river. Since the river was murky unlike its clear avatar, we decided to ditch boating.

Lunch was simple with the usuals and a pleasant surprise in the form of channa or back gram curry. It reminded me of my Mom’s special black gram gravy.

Lam had discovered a hidden falls by the name of Byrdaw near Dawki which are bewitching to say the least. There is a small 15 minutes trek to the falls through a deep forest. The melody of the falling waters can be heard from a distance and the when you actually behold the copious amounts of water falling from such a height, your heart does skip a beat.

Next up on our list was the Mawlynnong, the cleanest village in Asia. The village although clean, has been beautified with ornamental plants and creepers and does give an appearance of “made up beauty”. Nevertheless, it is a soothing place to visit after suffering the harrowing humidity of Dawki. You can also buy bamboo handicrafts from local shops here.

Day 3

The day started slightly late at 9:30 am as we had to roam around Shillong only. We first drove to the Laitlum village which is again surprisingly clean and eye-soothing. But the real beauty was waiting for us when we finally reached the Laitlum canyon. The moving clouds, the green hills & canyon, the wild flowers and a serpentine river make this a wonderland. People usually visit this place for old school picnics. The best part is not the natural beauty but dustbins at every few metres so that the pristine surroundings are maintained.

And travel to Shillong is never complete without a visit to the Maphlang sacred grove. Lam called this a magical place and it is rightly so. There are trained guides available at the entrance and the visitors have to go with them because there are certain rules to be followed while going for the scared grove walk. For instance, you can not take anything from the forest. It is believed that if you kill an organism or pluck a leaf/fruit/flower, this action will affect 1000 lives. So it is better to soak in the surroundings of the lush and dense forest and observe the flora and fauna.

There are two treks through this forest – one for half & hour and another for two hours which finishes at the famous David Scott’s trail.

Special note about our host Mr. Lam – he is extremely helpful and understanding. He took care of every aspect of the trip and even pep talked to us when we were too tired during our trek. He guided us about the spots to take photographs from and the places to visit. He also talked elaborately about the history of the places we visited and the cultural aspects present here. Here is the link to his homestay: https://www.airbnb.co.in/rooms/22151957

After the Maphlang sacred grove trek, we started for Shillong and en-route had a hearty meal at the ML05 café.

Lam arranged a cab for us for Guwahati from Police Bazaar and we reached the Assam capital by 8pm. Our stay was at an Air BnB near the Guwahati airport and it was not in the cleanest condition as the owner Mr. Tathagat was away. He eventually made up for it by dropping us at the airport in the wee hours of the morning without any charge.

Special thank you to my friends Anjali and Pratibha with whom it is always a pleasure to travel. All my pictures are clicked by Anjali through her Iphone X.

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Although this place is known as Seven sisters falls, but I couldn’t bring the total count to 7 when it came to counting all the waterfalls in this area. But this weird mathematical anomaly was quickly forgotten when the clouds opened, as they usually do in Cherrapunjee, that receives the second heaviest rainfall in the…

This is indeed a real place where the hills meet the fluffy clouds.

The vibrance does comeAfter a harsh summer.

When you realize that you are part of a painting that nature crafted.

Engrossed in a movieAnd binging on junk foodTaking the worried mindAnd a racing heart to sleepI never knew the miracles of the night.

The mad twittering of magpiesWith their monochrome bosomsOh what a spectacle!To behold for many births So forget notAbout this miracle called life.

We will bask in such views again,But first we have to wade throughThese murky waters of pandemicLearn from the previous wavesAnd take all safety precautions.

Old picture from 2018In the erstwhile years, the empty country roads always invited me to sit & get clicked on them. Looks like I’ll have to sit on the floors of my home and surround myself with paintings of conifers to relish that feeling!

Open the petals of your heartAnd bloom like this yellow elder.

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I was standing on the slanting edge of the Nag Tibba peak when this picture was taken. The twists & turns while scaling this particular peak were too many, pretty much like the ones we are facing now.You see, I was able to reach the top despite a resounding back pain, pain heavy legs and…

Your cheerful pinksAnd playful winksSoothe my jaded soulPacifying this broken heart So come here, come near meAnd bring with yourself those colours you flaunt. Taken from my poem “Colours of life” on gluttonyguilts.com.

The vibrancy sneeking in through the gap between the trees and illuminating the snow patches and the dry pine leaves on a winding trek.

I climb the mountains alone Unknowingly reminiscing your teachings I lose myself in their beauty The way you relished them

And what a trek will it be if the mighty conifers are not there to sooth us in their shade?

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Just as this lonesome tree is perfect in its imperfections, we too are. So who are we to judge the imperfections of others?

Our campsite during the Kareri Lake Trek. It was a small even site and one had to traverse a steep snow laden ascent to reach it. Could not have been more adventurous.

Kareri Lake Trek is one of the toughest treks of my life. Not because of the fact that I didn’t complete it. But because the live snowfall made it taxing. Not to forget that I slipped quite a few times and got myself stuck in 4-5 feet deep snow.

Who can say Where the road goes Where the day flows Only time. Caption credits: #enya

We trekked in this amount of snow, where the trail was under 4-5 feet deep snow and when there was a heavy snowstorm approaching us. Too bad we didn’t reach the lake, but we gained a valuable experience.

Himachal, the abode of numerous mountainous treks and meadowish landscapes is finally back on my travel list. And the trek I chose this time was a tough one – the Kareri Lake. I wanted to challenge myself this time so decided to go for a three day trek with patches of snow here and there….

And what a life this ageless tree has Waiting for the snow to freeze it’s exterior Awaiting the blazing sun to nourish it’s swaying leaves Waiting for the trekkers for solitary pictures And ultimately waiting for death for decades.

And what a trek will it be if the mighty conifers are not there to sooth us in their shade?

So what stops you From hiking these mountains Inside you and outside here Conquer your mind Your heart And eventualy these mountains.

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A left turn hereOr a right one thereFor every turn brings a new light.

The silence before the storm.

Just as this lonesome tree is perfect in its imperfections, we too are.So who are we to judge the imperfections of others? Well trekking for the Kareri Lake was definitely dangerous.

The levelled roads appear so welcoming after a steep descent.

I think I miss those mountain fluffs more than travelling or trekking or even mountains. They are so considerate of your trekking routes and will always guide you to the right path.

My first snow trek happened in 2019 at the Kareri village trek. The maximum temperature was 5 degrees when we began the trek at the Kareri village. And the clouds in this picture don’t do justice to the wet atmosphere there – continuous downpour and the snowstorm

Posing for the camera while balancing yourself in three layers of clothing, two layers of socks with gaiters and a 1.5 kg DSLR.It is challenging to trek on snow specially when the trail is not clear. But aren’t the mid week blues challenging too?

Posing for the camera while balancing yourself in three layers of clothing, two layers of socks with gaiters and a 1.5 kg DSLR.It is challenging to trek on snow specially when the trail is not clear. But aren’t the mid week blues challenging too?

It is a dangerous business Frodo, going out your door, you step onto the road and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off – Bilbo Baggins, LOTRWell trekking to the Kareri Lake was definitely dangerous.

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I am glad that I am currently residing in the national capital which is pretty near to Jaipur.  The X-mas weekend was the only opportunity for me to finally fulfil my dream of visiting this mesmerising city and learn about the Rajput culture. A 45 minute flight saved my time.

Day 1

Arrival time at Jaipur airport: 10:30am.

Place of stay: The Lalit, Jaipur. It is within 2km distance of the airport and a 10 minute Ola ride through wide and smooth roads took me there.

The Lalit is a four star premium hotel but the way the staff at the reception treated my check-in was third grade. I had booked a suite for three women and had talked to them previously that I want to do the check-in by 11am. The reception personnel said that I cannot check-in before 11:30am and I have to pay 9510 bucks for the special and compulsory Gala Dinner. I was short of money on that day and had to save for the trip as well, so it was not possible for me to pay the whole amount in one go. The reception staff refused the check me in without that payment and they did this with other travellers also, some of whom were students.

The room assigned to me was a normal deluxe room with two queen size beds with no space for a third bed. When I asked the service guy that where will he keep the third bed, he pointed to the only walking space in the room. A suite is supposed to have a king size bed, an extra table and sofas with enough space for a single bed, but here, I could not see any such amenities. When I called up the reception, they were clueless. After returning to the reception and having a conversation with the manager, I paid half the amount for the gala dinner on 24^th and was assigned the suite that I had booked.

In ideal conditions, our suite should have had three sets of cutlery, toiletries and other provisions. But I think the staff here is too dumb to understand that and we were always provided just one set, even when we ordered for in room dining.

Lunch in the suite: I had ordered Dal Tadka, Dal Baluchi and normal rotis for our lunch. We were provided complimentary mini desserts which were in the prettiest shapes – a lipstick, mascara, a pair of lips etc. Both the Dals were amazing in taste and full of flavours with the rotis reminding of the home made variety we have. The desserts were just sugar painted in different colours and we chose to leave them instead of harming our bellies.

Hawa Mahal at 4pm:

It was crowded as hell because of the long weekend but we were able to make through and relish the colourful interiors. The courtyard was soothing and the rooftop is a good place to observe the setting sun. There is World View Café just on the opposite side on the road from where you can climb upstairs and get your picture clicked with Hawa Mahal in the background.

Virajosa/Night Tour bus at 6pm: We had expected a lot from the night tour bus but this proved to be a damper on our spirits. They started early and asked us to reach Amar Jawan Jyoti (the second stop) instead of the assembly point which was the World Trade Park. We pointlessly waited for 30 minutes – in that time, we would have reached the assembly point and boarded the bus.

We had chosen roof top seats and they assigned us a six seater with a couple. Not good.

We were greeted with vegetarian Manchurian which was average in taste. A cold sandwich with juice and biscuits followed. The rooftop should have been in glass as shown in the pictures but it was covered in a green mesh which marred the experience of beholding the Jaipur skyline in the night.

Usually, in night tours, they have stops at specific places where a guide describes the history of the place but no such thing happened at the various halts mentioned except Jal Mahal. No description was given and we were bundled into jeeps which took us to Nahargarh Fort.

The jeep ride was eventful and scary in the night. The fort is situated on the hills and the winding, dark and deserted roads, cool air and a bumpy ride ensure the adventure which was missing in the bus. The jeep riders also told us about the history of forts here which was a welcome change.

Nahargarh Fort used to be a retreat for the queens of Sawai Madho Singh and a hunting residence for the kings. The city of Jaipur, when alit in the night, presents a beautiful picture from the railings of the fort.

There is a new Sheesh Mahal fashioned at the Nahargarh Fort and the entry fee is 200 bucks. Multi hued mirrors in medieval cuts and patterns greet you as you take a carefully treaded stroll wearing double layered carry bags as footwear. I was reminded of the “Sheesh Mahal special” song from Mughal-e-Azam.

We were offered a vegetarian Rajasthani thali on our way back in the bus and the taste was average.

Back at Lalit, we ordered Masala peanuts and grilled fish with vegetables and potato mash. The peanuts tasted stale and the fish was the only good aspect of the second dish. The vegetables were not sautéed but were boiled and instead of the potato mash, chopped potatoes were there. No class from a 4 star.

Day2: Because of my stomach infection, we got late and could only venture out for Amber Fort at 8:30 am. Because of the long weekend rush, we reached by 9:45 am and hired an ASI approved local guide. He took us through a short cut passage towards the fort where we encountered the alluring Jagat Shiromani temple which is dedicated to Meera Bai and Lord Krishna and has a huge flight of stairs. The architecture is mesmerising but our dear guide was in a hurry to get more customers so he rushed us through.

Jalebi chowk – This is the main courtyard which connects the Sun Gate with the rest of the palace. From here, the entrances to the Kali temple, Diwan –i-am and the Shahi Hamam proceed.

Diwan-i-am – A pillared hall on a raised platform with elephants adorning the pillars. You can stand near the railings and revel in the brilliant sunshine and comforting winds.

Diwan-i-khas – Diwan-i-khas of any fort is worth two or three visits. Be it the Agra fort, the Delhi Red fort or even the Mysore Palace, the “hall of the special” is an exquisite world in itself. Amber fort was no different. Sheesh Mahal is one of the main attractions here. Fashioned from marble and having inlaid colourful mirror work, this hall will definitely take your breathe away.

Jaigarh Fort:

From Amber, it takes half an hour to reach the Jaigarh Fort which is situated uphill. This fort holds the biggest cannon of the world which was only fired once and its target was 40km away.

This used to be the stronghold of the royal battalion & defence and was constructed from security point of view. I found this one better than Amber, maybe because of lesser crowd and maybe because of its “fort like” qualities. Tough and imposing walls surround you as you enter this. It is not as ornate as Amber and no embellishments and decorations are there to allure you. But as you move along this one, you get to see Jaipur from the view point of the warriors who used to man the ramparts of Amber. Jal Mahal, Amber, Nahargarh, you name it, and you can view it.

Because it is situated at a greater height than Amber, the flowing wind soothes your mind and cures you of tiredness as you walk on the hardened stone floor. Langurs, pigeons and parrots carefully move away as you tread towards the light house. What a travel state!

The Gala dinner at The Lalit on 24th December was disappointing to say the least. The hotel made it compulsory for every traveller but did not make the necessary arrangements for it. We were asked to wait for 10-15 minutes and when we argued against it, the hotel staff mentioned that we are coming at a time of rush. The timings are from 7-10pm and people will come at their own convenience to which the hotel staff does not agree. After many arguments, we were assigned a table.

The cheapness of the hotel does not end here. They were serving the lowest grade of Sula red wine and the food was pathetic. The cold cuts and the cheese tasted stale. I was concerned about my stomach so did not eat much.

Day3: City Palace

Our plan was to explore the city palace for an hour and then rush back to the airport for our flight. But thanks to an ignorant cab driver who instead of listening to us and following our directions to the destination followed his own gut feeling and got us to Taj Mahal Palace hotel (imagine the frustration), we only got 15 minutes for the residential palace.

I think I am getting exhausted of writing on and on that how clean the palaces and forts of Jaipur are. The frescoes and cravings are maintained till date and the colours and the beauty intact. There is a queue for getting snapped at the famed peacock door and you do require patience for that.

I wish to visit Jaipur again because there are so many places that I was unable to visit and so many dishes to hog on.

Jaipur, let us meet again!

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A note on skinny shaming or making someone conscious of their slim body: A person’s shape is not only dependent on their diet but also on their metabolism, genetics and physical activities.When you see a person in the perfect shape, perfection defined by societal standards, they might be in “shape” due to a good diet,…

I was standing on the slanting edge of the Nag Tibba peak when this picture was taken. The twists & turns while scaling this particular peak were too many, pretty much like the ones we are facing now.You see, I was able to reach the top despite a resounding back pain, pain heavy legs and…

Your cheerful pinksAnd playful winksSoothe my jaded soulPacifying this broken heart So come here, come near meAnd bring with yourself those colours you flaunt. Taken from my poem “Colours of life” on gluttonyguilts.com.

The vibrancy sneeking in through the gap between the trees and illuminating the snow patches and the dry pine leaves on a winding trek.

I climb the mountains alone Unknowingly reminiscing your teachings I lose myself in their beauty The way you relished them

And what a trek will it be if the mighty conifers are not there to sooth us in their shade?

The post Travel Life Musings Nag Tibba Trek Uttarakhand India appeared first on Gluttony Guilts.

An Italian setting with relaxed wooden interiors, peaceful surroundings, slow French music in the background and a lovely authentic Italian menu is what this place stands for. They have a range of lip smacking subtle dishes and delicate imported wines. Chicken cob salad: Medium thick slices of soft grilled chicken served with chewy bacon, boiled…

Located in Sakinaka, this is a must visit resto-bar if you love beer and are daring enough to explore the varied flavours in which the beer is brewed. The pub gives the vibes of a typical English watering hole with beer related paraphernalia and posters of famous retro bands adorning the walls. They have a…

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The walls will turn more rustic The designs will fade away The colours won’t last that long But these memories Only these memories shall remain.

And they tell you that travel is fun They tell you to travel is to invite the hues of life They tell you to take your bulky DSLR’S Waiting to click the myriad images But they never tell you That it is unpredictable Unwarranted And will sometimes make you cry Will tire your body And…

It does not do to dwell on dreams and forget to live, remember that. So one fine day, I forgot about my dream to visit Hawa Mahal and here I am, standing in front of it. Momentary dwelling is always better than day dreaming. Caption credits: Eleven minutes by #paulocoelho

Who told you travel was easy? The smile on my face no way justifies my pathetic condition during the long weekend trip at Jaipur. Just a week back, a stomach infection surfaced and I was on medicines for the whole time. It got worse on the first day at Jaipur, thanks to the sun standard…

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Jodhpur city in the background.

Jaswant Thada at Jodhpur offers serene gardens to sit and relax under the desert sun.

How in the presence of water, the inner happiness is transformed into a jolly existence.

There are a few places which will hold your attention as well as the enchanting Jaswant Thada.

That is a green bee-eater I spotted at Jim Corbett National Park.

Corbett Woods Resort at Rampur, offers such lovely corners to click and to get clicked.

I stare into a world unknown That is slowly taking my heart in its stride.

Are you aware about the colourful story behind the creation of the Ashrafi Mahal in Mandu?

The closer you think you are, the lesser you will actually see. Caption credits: Now you see me  

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